Another request for help and advice ... on Acquariando other answer, which also attracted comments from readers are welcome (but now with the experience of the previous blog on Blogger I already know that while many readers are "commentators" pochissssssimi!)

I started from Saturday to set up my tank 180 lt. net approx.
I put in the middle of a beautiful redice mangrove.
I put the bottom of the gravel (the dealer told me not to wash it) it took me a bit 'of water and inserted the small plants (anubias) in all 4.
I finished filling the tank (130 liters at rest and reverse osmosis tap) and I started the filter outside of the resins Askoll who advised me the same shop where I took the tutto.Ci I put the bacteria (and continue to put them) and fertilizer for plants.
Before the water was filthy then as the days passed it became more clear.
Unfortunately, however, on the surface of the tank has remained a thin layer of dirt, which makes the water slightly cloudy.

How can I delete it?
Another thing, the root of mangroves has been covered with a whitish coat ... is this normal?
Today I saw a scrutinizing the aquarium snail, bad sign?

Thank you in advance for the answers and continues with this blog!

Did not you say something important ... this is the first aquarium you put up with that? Before buying bath accessories and plants ... you bought a hybrid or two on the aquarium and fish ? I just hope you ... even if the first question would be better to be NO, so you would not have a first aquarium of 180 liters to manage ...
Anyway ... what was the gravel? Brand? Simple gravel or was fertilized? Because if it was simple gravel was rinsed well ... well, why not clean off the dust cloud water you now?? Try to remove it with an absorbent cloth or vacuuming with a hose.
Then the water that you bring it removed "new" to bring things level. You have used all tap water or only a part or the entire reverse osmosis water directly? What values ​​did your tap water?

Bacteria put them under the guidance of the bottle, put too many useless, however, the filter of an aquarium must take its course. Clearly not put any fish before another 15 days. 15 DAYS. 2 weeks ... no less, I recommend it.
The liquid fertilizer is useless now, you do not have plants that need it, the 4 anubias in 180 liters are few and are very slow to grow, then "consume" a little. Instead add the pure fast-growing plants, free standing, you can prune often eliminating nitrates from the aquarium.
The root of comperta patina is normal, even that disappears with time, while the snails should not be a problem, some species are good tenants in the aquarium. Depends on what you have ... what you brought from the store where you've stocked ... only time will tell.

And finally ... thanks for the compliments! ))

I respond to a polite request for information, readers may kindly also leave their feedback in the comments.

Albert writes:

"Good morning,
I apologize in advance for the inconvenience and would like to kindly ask you information about the creation of a new aquarium plants and
a few small fish (neon, cardinal, cichlids etc.). I found myself to create my new aquarium because every time I have
difficulties in plant breeding. These are ugly after a while, yellow, and "bald".
I have an aquarium of 200 liters. about which I refused to put plants (above problem) and one 80/90 lt. in which I would create the environment of plants. Having said this I would politely ask them to use neon lights for good. Now there are 2 T5 24W and 18W T8 2 (10000K and one for all other produce white light I do not know the values).
I also possess a system of CO2 refillable tank (which values?? No bubbles?), A substrate into balls of clay and fine sand layer. "

Hello Alberto, do not despair, because the errors they commit, and all attempts to proceed you will see that you too will find "your" aquarium plants.
First of all I invite you to put plants in the aquarium too big. Do not worry substrate, CO2 and fertilizer, meanwhile, put a couple of fast growing stem plants. If you have fish that feed you'll see that good fertilizer plants will have enough and you will also help to keep down nitrates in the aquarium.
To have a rather nice "plantacquario" where short plants play an important role, you must think of giving them ALL, because in practice the plants to grow, they need nutrients in a certain relationship between them, the item you found in smaller quantities affects their growth and are told so limiting. In practice, if we hectoliters of liquid fertilizer in an aquarium, but in low light and low CO2 dissolved in water ... plants do not grow and, indeed, we will see proliferation of algae!

Then we analyze the factors for YOUR plant growth:
LIGHT: You have 80 liters of 84W, so the light is in place to ... "postissimo" I would say. But for the spectrum, which changes megli 2 neon light with as many "pink", hotter than the other, as they say fitistimolanti merchants. If you take the "commercial" type OSRAM or PHILIPS, you can put the 840. Then when you change all the neon, then try the combination 865 +840, the first front and behind the second.
Fertilizers: except for those in the bottom of the fertile (clay only, I think it's just ...) you must use the liquid fertilizer. If you have already created the fund, it would perhaps be better if some piantassi tablet slow release fertilizer, at least where we plan to place plants with a substantial root system, such as Cryptocoryne or Echinodorus. If you can put in all the places where plants, do so first.
The liquid fertilizer must be complete and you can choose from many lines, ranging from daily to weekly ones. There are also recipes for DIY , for example the famous PMDD.
Co2: you have a system in order, hopefully a decent speaker (well, not the porous stone ...), maybe a classic with the porosity?
Keep the water hardness low, in relation to the fish that want to keep, for example KH between 3 and 6 °, and adjusts the bubbles starting from a few, 5-10, per minute, up to lower the pH where like. You have short, you choose the values ​​of the water and then adjust the bubbles to get there. You must keep in mind the table that binds PH, CO2 and KH and try to keep as a goal 15-30mg / l of CO2. lower the KH and less bubbles you will make, saving carbon dioxide to the environment and your wallet. For example, you may use water with KH at 4 ° C and pH 6.6 for get to have a good concentration of CO2.
All this clearly if you have a facility to do the reverse osmosis water (demineralized water otherwise), comfortable, produces water with a KH zero and very low concentration of any element. Otherwise you have to buy from the retailer, mixing such as that of the tap, or by using the salts made on purpose, to give the correct hardness. And please also top up evaporated water, must be made ​​with purified water, otherwise it increases the salts dissolved in water. If you're not going to use purified water, but tap water with water conditioner ( for convenience and not to go into the store with jerry cans, more than anything else, because the cost is minimal compared to the cost of everything else), then the item will always be the limiting CO2, with high hardness because you will not be possible to have enough in the aquarium.
This does not mean you can not grow plants undemanding with tap water and no CO2, it will be harder to see them in the prime of their beauty: it begins with plants plants like Hygrophila Polisperma, Microsorium, many Cryptocoryne species, Rotala rotundifolia, Elodea.

And when you've reached a good result ... I recommend Acquariando to send your photos!

About a month ago I bought an acidifying water aquarium, just this : TropicalDrops 100 ml of SHG.
If we use 1 ml per 10 liters of water before you use all the water of the aquarium and then only on that of the partial changes (I change about 15% every week).

I find it a good product, slightly lowers the pH and especially does not color the water, not the darker, as it happened to me with a couple of products from competing brands. At least I do not like the amber water, also because it takes away too much light to the plants, even though they may in some Amazonian rivers the water is very dark, dark like tea!

Be careful, however, its use in conditions of very low KH, say under 2 °, maybe 3 as indicated on the packaging is also exaggerated, because it could create the conditions for a sharp drop in PH ... especially in association with administration of CO2, and this reason could quickly lead to death of the fish we have in the aquarium!

Do you have experience with other "tropicalizzanti"? Have you tried this same product? How have you found? Effects "collateral" recorded?