THE HATCHER
Arrive eggs purchased with his friend Valerio (who was also a member of CIR ), all had as "date of hatching" ... recommended on December 25 as the date was very uncomfortable for obvious reasons, I started a couple of days prior to hatching 2 species, for the first 8 hours after Notobranchius Palmquisti and the N. Eggersi, then unlock the N. Guentheri December 26.
Also because the eggs seen through the lens just seem ready to hatch.
In fact ... we have observed with a microscope, with photos and a nice video edited by Valerio, here it is

This container used: small, plastic, large enough to spread evenly, however, the peat with the eggs, hatch them in the hope of the best and then take the little ones with ease. The operation takes several hours, even days to say, so be sure to keep the bowl in a place where it will stay a couple of days without anyone touching it.

1. Take the peat and spreads well-well tray with water that will be the same one in which we want to breed them. The theory is that this water should be similar to that produced by rain (water tender, such as reverse osmosis) that fill a pool. So I used 60-70% and 30-40% of purified water tap water (decanted, left in the tank for 2-3 days)
2. Then I sprayed, vaporized, the water on the peat cover for up to 2-3 cm (I used about 1 liter of water)
3. wait a couple of hours
4. with magnifying glass in one hand (or VERY sharp eye), you pass through a sieve tray far and wide in search of the slightest movement, that will immediately highlight the presence of a fry Killi!
5. at this point are inserted in the container a bit 'of nuapli of Artemia salina
6. finished the first round of patrolling you leave everything and it still comes back to look after another couple of hours, but the idea is still to leave the fry newly hatched quiet, weak, which can easily become a belly sliders (ie problems with the swim bladder, destined to die) by adding Artemia when we see that there are not any more, because you eat or death. We can leave them in there for a few days, always adding a bit 'of water, thus diluting the content that will inevitably dirtier.
   Depending on the size of the container, after 2, 3 or more days, we take the fry healthy and move them in a pan larger, not too otherwise will be more difficult for them to eat the Artemia.
7. What to do with the remaining peat? First of all council tries to analyze it in unhatched eggs, but also for not finding any security we can remove all the water (I recommend putting it in a bottle to re-analyze it against attempts to fry alive) and dry peat. Then try again to schiuderla after another 15-20 days.

Transfer (at least oxygenated tank)

Transferred them to the aquarium that you see in the picture, where I inserted a "bowl of gauze" (the classic ones formed from a simple plastic casing, with around a sort of hair net from the finer mesh, however) and 2 glasses of Plastic 200-cc. with the permeable bottom (a piece of sock pulled and glued to the sides), attached to the edge of the aquarium, with 2 spare tubes to bring the 2 cups of water. In the box of gauze in fact, the water enters and leaves very well also from the sides, there is always short, and therefore the movement within the exchange of water.
In these basins created to take advantage of the temperature and chemical stability of an aquarium "great", I added a couple of stalks of Ceratophillum, a bit 'of java moss and 2-3 snails to act as scavengers. I killifish should remain 2 - 3 weeks, the time to see them grow up enough to move them in the aquarium for them.
The current situation is as follows:

• Notobranchius Palmquisti (hatched Dec. 23): removed from the peat in 5, only a quiet swim, next to a poor belly sliders ... that will probably die soon
• Notobranchius Eggersi (hatched Dec. 23): removed from the peat in 8 swim in 5 with bacon full of Artemia salina
• Notobranchius Eggersi (hatched Dec. 26): removed from the peat in 13, I can not count how many swim and eat, because immersed in the java moss. But I'm least 4
  

This is what happens in nature in these magnificent animals

If you missed it, read the very complete article on Caridina Dennerli, small shrimp scurso red dotted with white, which relates the experience of Emanuele Calandra .
For my tastes are very nice, although they prefer the most cicciotte "Red Crystal", especially those of class S, that is not too white, but they are also interesting given the low uptake of these shrimp Dennerli.
The article is full of photos and practical tips for playing delicate crayfish. If you look closely between the pictures ... are also built snails of the genus Tylomelania colors I'd never seen!

After a disappointing half between 2007 and 2008, I decided to try to breed killifish. It 'was still a good experience, albeit with limited results. This time I chose to take, always with a friend, 60 eggs of 3 species of Nothobranchius (African), and always from a seller on Ebay. Have to wait long, we know, but at least we can have less common species.
The idea is that, between the errors of both, of 3 species we should get at least 3 males and 3 females of 2 species, hoping for a few belly sliders and a decent relationship between males and females.
I'm so in bondage to rituffare of Artemia (hardly able to eat these fish flake food or granules), but thank goodness that there are those peeled and already I have tried that are accepted (at least they were in the hatch of Austrolebia nigripinnis and Nothobranchius korthausae red )

These eggs, which should arrive in early December, hypothesized to be hatched by the end of the month:

1. Nothobranchius guentheri Zanzibar
   Males up to 7 cm long and females up to 5, so a little 'longer than average, seem to be more aggressive
   
2. Nothobranchius eggersi blue
   Males and females reach 5 cm, which seems to be most suitable for their water harder than average, and that males are more aggressive with the females compared to other known, so it would be advisable to separate the 2 sexes to toggle different females with a male, taking the pair into a pan, and used only for a week.
   I could see a few fry survive, because it seems they are really small, most of the other known, so that they fail to eat the brine shrimp, rotifers, and then let them ... I will try to obtain some of them in the meantime, maybe some friend more "gifted"
3. Nothobranchius palmquisti
   Males and females reach 5 cm, the rest have similar needs to guentheri

Where to keep them? Which aquarium set up for these annual killi, to make them feel good and also to preserve their eggs and continue to breed them after the death of the first specimens hatched from these eggs bought on Ebay?
They want to pan temperature, even 20 °, 22 °, in fact better, in short, a cross between not too cold to make them feel bad, but we know that more is cold and can live for several months. Water still quite hard, and with a neutral pH. You can still read the reproductions in different types of water, then is not a problem just use tap water probably, but I prefer to do 50% of tap water and 50% of purified water.
Better to keep them with a little 'sea salt water to avoid Odinuum (one teaspoon per 5 gallons of water)? ... This is a topic discussed last time I did well to keep the plants, this but once I set up 2 different aquariums, one with plants without salt, and a Anubias barteri nana and only a little 'salt.
On the bottom you could keep the sand, but the best solutions are
- Uniform layer of 1-2 cm of peat, nothing on the bottom to prevent the fish from injuring the gjiaino in their excited reproductions, layer where the fish lay down, then move the fish somewhere else and take it peat with eggs
- No background, only one or more trays (clay, plastic, glass) with inside peat always filamentous (not in granules, to understand). Then will lift these containers instead of the players, leaving them more quiet, but we must be careful not to let peat and egg stages of "moving".
To decrease the stress from any reflection of the glass bottom, if the basins will occupy a small part, you can use the leaves of oak, which also release humic acids by acidifying the water.

In both cases, the choice of plants must be made with particular attention, we could for example use stems of Egeria Ceratophillum or linked to a foreign body, so that they grow more and vertically (beautiful, strip off less light than to let it float), Anubias or Microsorium (for larger aquariums) tied to pieces of wood or porous rocks, floating plants (not too much otherwise we lose the beauty of the colors of these gorgeous killifish, which give the best with direct sunlight due to reflections of metal on the body).

Just to duty ... remember that these fish, the killifish, are excellent jumpers (thick puddles where they hatch their eggs after the rains demoting to the point that they are compelled to jump in search of another larger pool, with Pià water). Therefore can be kept closed only in aquariums, even small of 8-10 liters, but with a lid above.

Look how beautiful these 2 males eggersi struggling, what colors and temperament!

Next post on how to hatch eggs Killi, to review.