maschio di Apistogramma trifasciata, piccolo ciclide nano It sounds simple, but basically it is NOT: If you have ever tried to photograph your tank , you know very well how difficult it is to have enough light to shoot with the times "human", ie with aperture times fast enough to reduce or eliminate all the chances to get a blurred picture.

We say that under 1/60 and freehand the odds of making a bike move are real ... I would say that in at least 9 shots of 10 will have a blurred picture due to the movements of the "system" camera + hand ", well, now consider this shutter remained elusive, it is VERY important!
If in fact we come to have shorter than 1/60 what should we do? We avoid taking? Absolutely not!

Attrezziamoci as possible to remain "stable", even without a tripod you can make something clear, at home and abroad:

  • Focal short: the more lengthy and more difficult to control the movements
  • most stable position possible: elbow to the pelvis / tummy and firm grip, but not close because the stretch shake more easily!
  • we hold the breath, scattimo, breathe again
  • we use a support if possible: the wall, back of a sofa or bed, an old stick, a broom, whatever we are decent and can lead to high
  • build us a simple "bean-bag" (it was easy for me, so ...) and with this we use the plans of the chairs or tables or some other piece of furniture

In addition, to increase the possibilities at our disposal, we have a camera, almost always tons of kb available, we take and we take many pictures until all one also does not fit that particular single shot of 10! But if we only try to be lucky, it is very likely that we will get a blurred picture, for example to 1/30 or 1/10 of a second, but if we keep taking "continuous", or burst, the same shot, it is very likely that our hand is held steady at a particular time, because its movement is NOT constant, is random but not continuous, and ... that's magically get a nice sharp picture even at 1/30. :-)
If we think the chances are minimal, we can also shoot 20 or 30 photos, see them at the PC at 100% magnification and assess the "stop".
To limit the shutter speed and also processing and post-production, we can avoid taking only shoot in RAW and JPG photos, but always better to avoid lowering the quality of JPG, better keep it up, then eventually then reduce it to the PC.

Recall that this system is useful for what concerns the OUR moved, the one that we could avoid buying such a camera or a lens with a "vibration reduction", but you can not stop the movement of fish in the aquarium, the ' oscillation of the leaves under the current, etc..
For this type of photo you need more light (flash, spotlights, neon lighting additives, etc..) To use shorter shutter speeds, minimum 1/125 of a second, or even dramatically increase the ISO, ie the sensitivity of the "film" (but losing in quality, it increases the noise, dirt in the picture), in short, no tricks! :-(