Aquarium and aquarium in my passion for plants, fish and aquatic world
It sounds simple, but basically it is NOT: If you have ever tried to photograph your tank , you know very well how difficult it is to have enough light to shoot with the times "human", ie with aperture times fast enough to reduce or eliminate all the chances to get a blurred picture.
We say that under 1/60 and freehand the odds of making a bike move are real ... I would say that in at least 9 shots of 10 will have a blurred picture due to the movements of the "system" camera + hand ", well, now consider this shutter remained elusive, it is VERY important!
If in fact we come to have shorter than 1/60 what should we do? We avoid taking? Absolutely not!
Attrezziamoci as possible to remain "stable", even without a tripod you can make something clear, at home and abroad:
In addition, to increase the possibilities at our disposal, we have a camera, almost always tons of kb available, we take and we take many pictures until all one also does not fit that particular single shot of 10! But if we only try to be lucky, it is very likely that we will get a blurred picture, for example to 1/30 or 1/10 of a second, but if we keep taking "continuous", or burst, the same shot, it is very likely that our hand is held steady at a particular time, because its movement is NOT constant, is random but not continuous, and ... that's magically get a nice sharp picture even at 1/30.
If we think the chances are minimal, we can also shoot 20 or 30 photos, see them at the PC at 100% magnification and assess the "stop".
To limit the shutter speed and also processing and post-production, we can avoid taking only shoot in RAW and JPG photos, but always better to avoid lowering the quality of JPG, better keep it up, then eventually then reduce it to the PC.
Recall that this system is useful for what concerns the OUR moved, the one that we could avoid buying such a camera or a lens with a "vibration reduction", but you can not stop the movement of fish in the aquarium, the ' oscillation of the leaves under the current, etc..
For this type of photo you need more light (flash, spotlights, neon lighting additives, etc..) To use shorter shutter speeds, minimum 1/125 of a second, or even dramatically increase the ISO, ie the sensitivity of the "film" (but losing in quality, it increases the noise, dirt in the picture), in short, no tricks!
5 comments for "Photographing the aquarium with a long time?"
Hello Raphael ... I think you can reasonably optimize it differently.
From my personal point of view, the burst does not make you take a picture "sharp", because in general the motion induced by the mirror that rises and lowers itself induces a movement. Better to just one single shot.
Obviously the technique of shooting has to improve for up to avoid making mistakes like shooting with one hand.
That said, the safety time, against camera shake, is the inverse of the focal around, ie you should use if you're shooting at 50mm 1/50 of a second. With the DX-format digital, however, this number should be increased for the same crop factor. For the Nikon is 1.5 while for the Canon 1.6.
For example, we should shoot around 50mm to 1 / (50 × 1.5) = 1/75 second.
Obviously if we get there with the settings of the machine we have no choice but to raise the ISO up to the value we please.
Danilo
Excellent guide! From personal experience I can tell you that not using the flash, increase the ISO to 600.Ho a tripod and use the timer as the pressure with the finger movement can create when we go to review the photos on our pc.In Alternatively you can always count on to stand in a cabinet (if you have one available or otherwise something like that). I recommend it a lot in sequence!
Hello Francis, rather than the self-timer you would use if you do, I raise the estimate of the mirror or the shutter delay, because the self-timer eliminates the problem of camera shake caused by the finger but does not eliminate the blur caused by the lifting of the mirror .
Danilo
oh yes ... unfortunately one of the flaws of my D50 is just the prior lifting of the mirror ...
I do not know actually what the day, but we say that something has definitely moved and when we talk about any excuse to reduce it is welcome!
I could appreciate that really counts a lot ... of course in the photo where it is important, especially with telephoto
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