Aquarium and aquarium in my passion for plants, fish and aquatic world
March 28
On the forums acquariofacile I found a list of rich and substantial symptoms of nutritional deficiencies of aquatic plants .
To quote as it seems because I do not need to be edited.
Nitrogen
- Chlorosis (yellowing leaves) in the older leaves first and then the young ones.
- Fall of the leaves (chlorosis after)
- Sagging leaves significantly
- Loss of color in the leaves from the old ones.
- Stems very slender
Phosphorus
- Developing labored
- Loss of older leaves
- Reddish pigment
- Chlorosis along the leaf veins (first in younger leaves)
- Loss of old leaves
- Loss of lucidity leaf
- Colours marked and / or bronze tints
- Redness along the ribs
Potassium
- Weakening of the stem
- Patchy chlorosis and necrotic margins following
- Blackened leaf areas
- Yellowing of the edges marked in the older leaves
- Browning
- Necrosis of leaf margins
Magnesium
- Blotchy chlorosis on older leaves first
- Loss of old leaves
- Yellow or purple spots on the leaf blade
- Folding up the leaf margins
- Yellowing of the leaves except the ribs first on older leaves
- Chlorosis magnesian
- Moria degl'apici radical when you can see them
Football
- Chlorosis of young leaves followed by necrosis and Fall
- Deformed leaves
- Opaque color of the leaves
- Leaves yellowish / whitish
- Discoloration and General negl'apici
- Necrosis with extensive rot
- You can not redistribute the element in a crisis, because it is permanently fixed
Iron
- Very obvious chlorosis in young leaves from ribs
- Chlorosis extended over the whole plant
- Veins yellow and / or white in young leaves
Manganese
- Chlorosis in spots and streaks present between the veins of the leaves followed by necrosis
- Ribs of the leaves with soft edges.
- Yellowing with shades
- New leaves with extreme dwarfism due to lack of photosynthesis.
- Reflections on the upper metal
Zinc
- Slow growth
- Chlorosis of older leaves between the veins
- Deformation of the leaf margins
- New apices marked with a yellow changing to white
- Reduction in size dell'apici
Boron
- Young leaves very dark green
- Thickening of the leaves
- Disintegration of the leaf
- Necrotic margins
- Extensions foliar incorrect and / or odd shapes
- Stains from chlorosis
- Deficiencies similar to those of calcium
Sulfur
- More evident chlorosis on young leaves
- Stunted growth
- Small apical leaves
- Unusual curling of leaves
Copper
- Darkening of the youngest leaves
- Leaves twisted and rolled
- Often necrotic margins
22 comments for "Symptoms of deficiencies in the chemical plants in the aquarium (and even emerged?)"
but what should I do if my plant has chlorosis?
How to fertilize? Do you think it sufficient? Maybe not ... then fertilize the missing nitrogen in your fertilizer, or lack the right proportion of nitrogen, but usually there are commercial ones all the elements in the right proportions for a planted tank average
ok .. thanks ... I'll try to change fertilizer ... thanks! Hello!
Hello I would like to apologize saperele right quantities of the following elements in a freshwater aquarium in mg / l:
boron
football
magnesium
manganese
molybdenum
copper
potassium
zinc
sulfur (or silicates)
all the data I have found are related to a saltwater aquarium, I imagine that for fresh water have different values than those of calcium and strontium are negligible and iodine .... all this mess because I'm preparing to change the water for good plant growth and good health of fish ..
if you can answer me on e-mail
fresh water is not all equal in the world, but usually by adding the purified water using salts of the compositions which have "balanced".
I would use always the same for simplicity and practicality.
Reference values truthfully I've never crossed on the web ... you always speak generically of "tracks".
It occurs to me that maybe you could try to search for discussions on fertilizer as PMDD, maybe comes out a multiplication table of some sort.
ok I give him a look ..... however I have seen various sites and tell me to add the following products: utility plus evergreen, or CIFO treu parecontenga that a more appropriate concentration of copper .....
the questions that I ask you then are the following:
These products contain a chelating agent, but these are not toxic to fish?
parameter values that differ from the previous sea water and fresh water?
The elements are "chelated", and therefore non-toxic, or better, all depends on dosage.
The difference with the sea water just did not know ... I hope in a reader + preparation.
ok ... I am not a clear definition of the chelating
and it shows .... The fact is that these products I trust shortly .... I was even thinking of taking minerals from the supermarket .... they fit we should also fish (it all depends on the doses ;))
[...] Another article on the same style, maybe a little 'less technical and therefore more easily "assimilated", but no less interesting, we find it mentioned several times on the blog Acquariando Raffaele Galano: Symptoms of deficiencies in the chemical plants in the aquarium. [...]
hello I wanted to ask you how you can treat and cure those spots dotted burgundy type I on the plants of my freshwater aquarium ...
Frankly ever seen ... but use a fertilizer? Of what kind, aquarium or do-it-yourself?
X Luisella
It may be a copper deficiency or very likely PO4.Sono new leaves or old to have these symptoms? I assume the old, and surely the growing plants veloce.Controlla PH and KH so you know also how much CO2.Se have a few fish and many plants (and hope) controls NO3, PO4 and k, not forgetting the quality of light (how many kelvin? and that white light).
If the tank is running for a short time do not worry too much for plants now but pay attention to the quality of the water (the plants are yet to acclimatize, then for the first month of potassium makes only a column of at least maintaining KH GH 4 and 6-8 at least.
Good morning wondering why the leaves of my plants sprout tiny dots to the point of sfibrarsi?
Hi all! I anubias anubias, large leaves, ie those that derive from the extreme of the rhizome, have begun to have the wavy lines and show that the tip goes down and making sure you see a thin brown edge on the tip. one of them is crumpling as a cannelloni. The small leaves instead appear to be well. the plant is in a 40 liter aquarium with 10 fish in small denominations. the lighting is composed of 40 to 20000 mcd LED ones that I keep running 4 hours a day. the acua you than tap water ph 7.3 I fertilized with 25 drops of florapride. I do not have the co2 system and I have not buried the rhizome because the plant was carefully tied to a mangrove root. The point is that the plant from the idea that you are really starting to bother even being in the water, and is rotting because I checked the rhizome that is not at all soft or brown eyes ... do?
only 4 hours of light?? There are very few! A so short photoperiod in Norway where he is ... maybe!
Portal to 8 and then perhaps after a month to 10.
COUNCIL. FOR ABOUT A WEEK AFTER 3 MONTHS OF MY AQUARIUM PLANTS OF 'FRESH WATER IS HOW MARCIENDO are withering, SOME HAVE BECOME DEATH ARE YELLOW AND MORE ARE ON THE EDGE THAT HAS HOLES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE LEAVES. FISH OF 'OUT OF AQUARIUM 19 LITRE ARE GOOD, THE TEMPERATURE OF' WATER 'IS ABOUT 28 ° AND PUT A DROP OF FERTILIZER JBL POL EVERY 3 DAYS, 7 DAYS OF EACH HALF CAP ZYME + STRESS STRESS COAT AND A HALF OF ALL PLUG PARTIAL CHANGE OF WATER AND NOW 1 OF DROP DENNERLE A1 DAILY COUNCIL ON THE DAY OF A DEALER X TO CONTINUE THE PLANTS. The 'ONLY THINGS THAT I HAVE CHANGED FROM' LAST WEEK AND 'THE ADDITION OF A amphora BOTTOM AND I CUT HALF' OF SPONGE CARTRIDGE THAT GOES ON IN THE FILTER PUMP OF 'WATER AND A WATERFALL' I HAVE REPLACED WITH 9 RINGS IN GLASS SINTERED Glax MINI RING FOR THE FILTRATION OF BIOLOGICAL 'THEN I HAVE ADDED 4 FISH AQUARIUM FOR A TOTAL OF 10. 3 DAYS FROM THE 'WATER NN
And 'MOST' CLEAR AS BEFORE AND I HAVE TO CHANGE THE FILTER EVERY WEEK
Meanwhile, lowers the water temperature to 26 °, which are more than enough. The chemicals you mention do not know them, but to my eye it seems you put too much and maybe the amount is exaggerated. Anyway to see what happens you MUST do the water test, you have written so much without mentioning the chemical values, these, which are used to "read" your water.
I analyzed the 'water of my aquarium as required by you for advice x more accurate temperature 28 ° Ph 8, GH15 °, 7 ° Kh, NO2-0.05 mg / l, No3 10 mg / l, the problem is always the the same plants are turning yellow and piercing as flaking help me
LOWERING THE TEMPERATURE-, for starters.
THEN: the light you have and what kind?
The other values are OK, maybe better than soft water (lower values of Ge and KH), but even so it should not destroy this.
Where did you buy maybe they were grown semi-emerged or were like water in the aquarium? Frankly, other things come to mind ...
prejudice can help me I wanted to know why the leaves of my plants shrivel and old ones have brown spots and holes, or checked against the water and the shopkeeper told me at that time was too hard or had a small gearbox with reverse osmosis water I fertilized with the roots and leaves of the tablets with a liquid of the evening but still remained so I have a bit of a shortage of co2 and 9 hours of light what can I do thanks
Hello I wanted to know why the top of my plants dry out ....
I stopped with the fertilizer because I thought it was what was burning .... and we are putting a lot to flower .... HELP
Ucome dry up??, Here we talk or plants in the aquarium, they dry out, if only out of the water, but 'normal.
Even the blooms, submerged and 'rare and occur only for some species, such as Anubias
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